Museums and shrines (and bookstores)

As the approaching typhoon Lan ruined tomorrow's Jidai matsuri, there was some talk to go to see the Heian shrine (the end location of the festival's parade)  today. Last I checked the weather forecast, it was supposed to still be nice weather today. Woke up, looked out of the window, and it was pouring. >_> I decided not to let some water bother me and went anyway. Not going to let that *censored* typhoon to destroy all plans, you know. After a quick search of the museums near the shrine I also found Hosomi museum, which specializes in old Japanese art - had a feeling a museum visit might be a good option for a rainy day.

So I took the bus to the district and, as it's Saturday and there's no way I'd get myself out early in the morning, I started by having lunch in a nice soba place I happened to pass. Though first things first: before that I checked out the Tsutaya bookstore that as well happened to be on the way. For once didn't by anything, though I did keep eyeing Sōseki's I am a Cat. I liked the atmosphere of this bookstore. I think it seemed bigger to me than it really was, because of the layout of different rooms. There's also a Starbucks connected to it.

Ok, then I went to eat, and then to the museum. The current exhibition at the Hosomi museum is about mappō, the last age of Buddhism (lit. "the end of law") during which the law of Buddha degenerates. The museum had translated it as apocalypse, but I don't think that's quite the right word for it... though I'm hardly any expert in this matter. And because I'm no expert, and also not quite able to read the Japanese only explanations, I didn't quite realize what all the art they had there had to do with mappō. This didn't matter much, though; I enjoyed the exhibition greatly. So many beautiful things - and old ones. The oldest were from Asuka period, I think, but there was quite a lot from Heian period too.

My favorites were Maruyama Okyo's painting 'Sudden rain over a village' (18th century), and a sutra roll from Kamakura period (1266, to be exact), with chapter 2 of the Lotus sutra. Especially the latter, it was so beautiful. I just stood there and stared at it and wondered how could get it. xD I could have the painting on my wall, too. So lovely, and the haziness of the rain was just masterfully done.

I tried to google for photos (you couldn't, of course, take any there) but didn't yet find either. Maybe I need to go there and buy that book with pics of all exhibition objects. Here's a different picture by Maruyama instead:

After the museum I left for the shrine. Despite the weather, I wasn't the only one there, but there surely were no crowds either. Walked around a bit, decided to leave the garden for a sunnier day. There was some kind of a ceremony going on in the inner sanctuary, I've no idea what it was about. There was a dozen people sitting, in perfectly ordinary modern clothes. I don't know, can you have some private ceremonies at the shrine? maybe it was something like that. I'd have loved to take some pics of the kannushi and miko present, but again, you were not allowed to take photos in that area.

But anywhere where you could take photos, I sure did. Here we go:

Here I was coming to the no-photos area. In the background,  on the left, you see that white and pale blue spot. That's where the ceremony was happening. (This is a small part of bigger, not very sharp pic. Here mainly for the cutest ever little girl. <3)

The torii gate leading to the shrine. I didn't arrive that way, but left by it.

Spotted a building up there on the mountain...

Courses (and stuff)

Third week of classes is now over, so I guess it's time to make some kind of a post about them. (Third! I'm still amazed at that. How?! The time has passed incredibly fast.) Actually, first about the course selection process... which has truly been just that, a process, and a lengthy one. In fact, maybe it is partly behind the feeling that the courses only just began, as only now I know for sure which courses I'm taking. (Also, some courses didn't really have lectures on the first week, they just gave some general info.)

During the first week you can go to check out the classes before making your decision, then you do the initial registration, after which comes the adjustment period during which you can still change your mind. Also, some courses have limited enrollment, and for those you need to obtain the lecturer's permission to take part on the first lesson. There are also some cases where those who get to take the course are decided by a lottery.

But anyway, my courses. First Japanese. There are two options for the normal Japanese course: either 4 or then 8 hours per week. In addition to that, you can have one kanji class, and choose from composition, reading, listening and conversation classes. As I'm here only for one term, I have to try to squeeze extra much Japanese into these five months... which means the 8 hour class to begin with, of course. Because I'm in the KUINEP program (which isn't really a language program, the language courses are just "extra") I have to take also other courses, which limits the number of Japanese classes I can have. I don't mind it much, as I really do want to study these other courses as well.

Japanese, Intermediate I

This course takes place on Monday and Tuesday afternoons, with two 90 min classes on both days. The timing is good, I think, and the classes themselves are fine though somewhat... heavy. There are three different teachers, one on Monday, when we go through the grammar and do some exercises, and two on Tuesday. The first of Tuesday's classes is for the listening exercises, the latter one for.... mainly reading, I guess. The classes are relaxed enough, the teachers nice, and overall the level is just right for me. Sometimes, though, the usual method of going through the exercises one by one, each student answering to one question, feels kind of frustratingly slow.

Kanji

In this class we go through about 15 kanji/week. At every class there is a short test of the previous kanji. Just for the record: this is also intermediate I level course, and apparently this is the highest level kanji course offered in Kyodai. So, if it's kanji you're after, maybe this is not your place... Actually, I've decided to do some kanji self-study at the side... how long that decision stands remains to be seen. ^^ Anyway, we also have at each class also one more difficult text, one you are not even supposed to be able to read, but where you should try make educated guesses, so to say, about some vocabulary. It's fun in its own way, as there is no pressure to actually be able to do anything... and it also gives those who are better some challenge.

Listening

I'd planned to take either conversation or composition as an extra course, but as it is... those collided with two of the KUINEP courses I really wanted, so I ended up with listening instead. (I confess, I'm not heartbroken about this.) And this class, too, is good for me, I think. We go through two exercises during each class. The first one is normally not too hard, though definitely not too easy either, and the second one is, at least for me, considerably more difficult. The books used are 毎日の聞きとり50日 、毎日の聞きとり plus40 and いつかどこかで, though luckily we didn't have to buy them ourselves.

That's it for Japanese. 12 hours altogether... and then there's another 12 hours of the KUINEP courses, as you have to take at least 6 of them.

Introduction to Classical Japanese Literature

This and the next course were the ones that saved me from made me miss the conversations and endless sakubun writing. I've heard claims that these classes are quite boring, and I guess my thoughts wander at times too, but still, so far, I enjoy the course. We read bits and pieces of poetry and longer texts, the lecturer analyses them quite thoroughly, and also gives us small group exercises to discuss about. This course requires an essay, 10 pages, but with double spacing. Makura no Sōshi, the Pillow Book, is calling me (how else), but I don't yet know what I'll write about.

Introduction to Japanese linguistics

So far this has mainly been introduction to phonetics, and the differences between sounds of English and Japanese - which has been quite helpful, really, with regards to Japanese pronunciation. The classes are lectures, at least so far with no discussion (but quite a lot of attempts to produce different sounds). Despite the the potentially dry subject matter and the early hour (8:45-10:15), on this course my thoughts do not wander (!) and it's in fact fighting of the position of my favorite course here. There'll be an exam at the end of the course, and there are some little homework questions for each time (though the lecturer stressed that he is not expecting "correct" answers from us, just some insights.)

Japanese Politics

I am not interested in politics. Period. This is the main reason I took this course... I figured I should try to widen my horizons a bit. For this course we read each week a chapter or two of Japan Transformed: Political Change and Economic Restructuring, and then the lecturer goes through basically the same things in class. Discussion and questions are encouraged, but so far I've yet to open my mouth. I think, so far, that it seems like a good course, and a good lecturer, and so on, but the thing is that I... am not interested in politics. Period. This is also a morning class, and it definitely doesn't help.

Religion in Contemporary Society

At the moment this is my favorite course. It's the most relaxed of them all, in its way. At first the lecturer will talk of the subject (on the first class it was the changing demography of Islam and the effect it has on the practice, and on the next the relationship of religion and science), and after that we're divided into groups to discuss a given problem. In the first class we were supposed to be the government of Saudi Arabia, and we had to solve the problem of Hajj with the ever growing number of Muslims and the danger of 2015 stampede happening again. The classes are, as I said, relaxed, thought-provoking, and I truly like the lecturer and his style to do this course.

Culture and Traditions in Japan

When I first went through the courses offered here I was already planning to take this course, but it was at the same time with a Japanese history class I also wanted, so I tried to get in there. Tried and failed; there was a lottery, and I wasn't lucky. So here I am instead, in the end. And it's not bad; I've not yet had any great new insights into Japanese culture, but there have been some interesting snippets of new information, and the course is just beginning. We have to do a group presentation in this course, which is not my favorite thing to do, but I guess I'll survive.

Current Issues in Japan

It's yet hard to say much of this course, as we've had only one class. The lecturer had a work trip or something, and so two next classes were cancelled. The first class was, maybe because of this, quite rushed and full of info, as if giving a peek into all matters that will be discussed during this course, or at least it feels like that. I'm not yet sure how much I'll really get out of this course, but at least it doens't seem that hard, or time-consuming. There will be some short tests and... a group presentation. Oh well. (I considered taking "Art, Culture, and Technology" instead of this one, but I think it's a bit too artistic for me. In many ways. This was the safe - and boring - choice.)

There. I guess that'll keep me busy next five months or so. ^^ My schedule's pretty nice, though, I think, with late classes on Mon and Tue and early the rest of the week. Actually, it looks like this:

I'm also glad that Tuesday's the only day when I have only the lunch break for lunch. One hour sounds like a lot, but there's such an awful rush to the cafeterias then it's no fun. Well, I guess you apparently can do it, but I'm happy to skip the rush hour. On Tuesdays I usually buy a bento box - after the greatest rush in the shop is over, that is.

The food in the university cafeterias is excellent, by the way. You can select your own menu from various items, and the price is quite affordable. Usually I keep it under 500 yen, though today it went a bit over as I took a little, uh, dessert thing.

My lunch: mapo tofu, rice, miso soup, egg and spinach,
stuff with beans, and dessert thingy. Plus water and tea.

Other than that... I was really looking forward to this weekend, as Sunday was the time for Jidai Matsuri... and then typhoon Lan appeared to ruin it all. First time after 29 years the matsuri is cancelled. :/ Talk about bad luck. Instead of a festival, I can now look forward to my first typhoon...

Bookstores! (Part 1?)

Yesterday was my birthday, and I decided that a proper way to celebrate it is, of course, to check out a few bookstores. Right? ^^ So I made myself a plan, and headed out toward the Teramachi street, around which seems to be some kind of a concentration of book and manga stores. (There is another concentration down by the Kyoto station; there some other day.)

The first place I stopped at was a small antiquarian bookstore, Kikuo Shoten. The first thing I noticed inside was the wonderful smell of old books. <3 I was going to photograph all bookstores I go to, but somehow forgot to take a pic of this one.... Here's a googled photo with random Japanese text:

The shelves were full of old Japanese books, but there were also some in western languages. John Batchelor’s The Ainu of Japan from 1892 caught my eye. I considered it long, but in the end, after I was finished with my round, returned to buy it. I guess it is a product of its time, written by a missionary (hence a religious viewpoint) back when colonialism and evolutionism and whatnot were still acceptable and a norm, but I still find the book intriguing. No matter his shortcomings (certain condescension, like talking of children, even when describing them warmly), Batchelor did speak for the ainu. As a side note, I think it’s funny that although he does point out in the book that the hairiness of the ainu is greatly exaggerated and most of them are not a bit more hairy than ordinary Europeans, he has seen it fit to give the book subtitle “the religion, superstitions and general history of the hairy aborigines of Japan”…

(Yes, I know this book is available online for free, but a pretty old book is a pretty old book….)

Next places were quite different from the first one, as I stopped by a couple of manga stores on Teramacahidoori. The first one I just wanted to see, Melonbooks, an otaku paradise, I guess.  Took a look inside and then left, before the exclusively male customers would be too shaken by a gaijin woman among them.

 Approaching...

Then, as I walked by it, Lashinbang, which is a secondhand manga/anime store (though everything seemed pretty new to me?) Lot’s of stuff from CD’s to figurines, but it didn’t feel like my place either, so I didn’t spend a lot time there.

One more manga place: Kikuya shoten, which is apparently the biggest bookstore for anime and manga in Kyoto. It is big enough, in two floors, and I might have explored it more, but I was beginning to get enough of manga stuff at the point.

You couldn't take photos inside, so here's one from outside...

Just by accident I happened to look in passing at some books that had nice-looking spines… and so I’d found Mushishi (蟲師), which is one of my favorite anime. Bought one volume. Next I’ll have to try to read it. At least it has some furigana…

The next place on the list was Maruzen. What a place. I spent so long there. Bought a few books (only in English, though) and a pretty letter set. Let’s see if I write to anyone. :p So many books…!!! Getting picture-heavy here... xD The bookstore's in two floors.

 English manga... mmm, spotting 20th Century Boys there...

Comics in Japanese... Ms. Marvel, the pink one.

 One of the Japanese manga shelves

 Magazines

 English scifi & fantasy! <3 (The next volume on Cherryh's Foreigner series is coming out in beginning of January... I will count on Maruzen to get it.)

 And just one general view of the English section.

The stationery department was pretty convincing as well. Where in Finland do you find a selection like this of writing papers?

I had another antiquarian on my list, but after Maruzen I went to buy the ainu book, and then I was running out of time. Some other day. There sure are many bookstores in Kyoto I’ve not yet seen. 

(And before you wonder, we did go for some drinks in the evening for my birthday too. xD)

Holiday studies...

Tomorrow I’ll have been two weeks in Japan. The beginning hassle isn’t yet quite over, but we’re (thankfully) getting there. I’ll have a pretty full schedule, but I’ll post more about my courses once I know for sure which I take – still considering between a couple. 

The past days I’ve mainly tried to get all every day stuff into order. Finding the Hundred Yen Shop was really useful, I’ve got from there so many things from toilet brush and a mini frying pan to coat hangers and chopsticks... not to mention many other maybe not so necessary (but fun) minor things...  I keep on calling that place hyaku man shop instead of hyaku en shop, by the way. Have to be careful before that becomes true to me, at the rate I’ve been shopping there. (Man = ten thousand, hyakuman = million.)

Amid the shopping and move-in procedures I’d have also wanted to explore the city a bit, but haven’t had much time for that. Yesterday evening I biked shortly to the Philosopher’s Path. It’s probably not at its best this time of the year, but I’ll be sure to go back there when autumn comes. Too bad I won’t be here anymore when the cherry blossoms…

Not a very sharp photo, the next one, but there was a funny bird in the bush... ^^

There were some nice shops there. I didn’t explore those too much, but I think I’ll have to return there some day. Bought two coasters from one place, one has words in kyokotoba (Kyoto dialect, have to figure out what they mean) and the other reminds of my favorite anime (first episode of Mononoke, anyone?)

Today I did some involuntary exploration. It was the Sports Day, which is a national holiday… but at Kyodai we sometimes live in a world of our own (there will come some days, as our Japanese teacher put it, when the rest of Japan has a Tuesday, but in the university it's Friday, and so on). So we still had our Japanese classes today. No other classes were held, but what of that – I have no other classes on Mondays. >_> It was a really beautiful day, so I decided to bike to the uni by the river, which isn’t the shortest way, but is by far the nicest. And somehow, once more displaying my incredible skills of inobservance, I didn’t notice the place where the rivers join into one and where I should have turned away.

This place, that is. Though I was coming from the opposite direction, following the river on the right, so maybe it’s not that easily noticed as from here… right? *cough*

Anyway, I biked and biked and at some point started to wonder if I’d passed places like this before… but then again, I’ve taken that route only a couple of times, and I  know I’m quite unobservant, so I thought it’s perfectly possible I just had not noticed these places before. After a while I was still beginning to have serious misgivings about it all – it surely shouldn’t take this long – and paused, and finally asked a couple of girls in which direction Imadegawa street is. And then turned and biked back nearly a kilometer or something. 

Well, could have been worse. I’d left really early, cause I was planning to first eat and then continue preparing for the lesson. Arriving at the university I again remembered that hey, yes, it’s the Sports Day, and the whole place is closed (except for our Japanese class, yay) and I couldn’t get food anywhere. I was beginning to run out of time, so I hurried to a nearby shop that was open and got some snacks. And then went to the Japanese class all sweaty from all this extra biking. It was a hot day, alright…

…and there were so many people enjoying their holiday by the river. Lying in the sun, wading in the water, reading… one girl was playing guitar, a group of young people had a grill with them… I’d have so wanted to go to cool down by the water a bit, but nah, good girls go to their Japanese classes, even on holidays, don’t they. 

But all this biking wasn’t completely in vain. I saw a really pretty butterfly, which apparently was a common bluebottle. Common to some, maybe, but not to me. Too fast to get a photo of it. Later I snapped one pic of this… bird. Stork? Whatever. Bird. By water. With yellow flowers. Unsharp, but what else is new. ^_^

Today I got the bank account thing into order. Quite a relief. This was again one of those things for which you aren't given too much time - I heard of getting the scholarship Thursday evening, Friday was the orientation day, then came the weekend... and everything had to be done in a week, by this week's Thursday (tomorrow, that is), or there'd be no monies for me. Monday I got my residence card stamped, and Tuesday I was going to get myself a Japanese phone number but it got complicated, so today I went to the post bank after all (they don't demand that you have a personal phone number), together with my tutor.

In the end I guess I would have survived on my own, because these people were clearly used to getting totally lost exchange students as customers, but it was still great to have her there to check that I had understood everything correctly. And also, reading the contract over my shoulder. I guess she would have told me if it was about selling my soul or whatever... I just did what I was told, crossing things here and there (checku this and checku that), without any idea what all those things were about...

So, now I've got a Japanese bank account, and all should be in order. *touching the wood*

The weather was quite nice today, to my taste. It has been so hot and humid, but today temperature went down a bit, and it was also a bit windy, which helped with the humidity. Here's one photo I took on the way to the dorm:

I returned at the dorm in the afternoon, so I decided to drop in at a nearby cafe for a cappuccino to celebrate my new bank account. It was a bit different place than I had thought from the outside. At first I thought I'd come into a bar, as there was a strong smell cigarettes and people hanging by what looked like a bar counter. As I stood by the door, hesitating a bit, a couple of old, hunched ladies gestured to me to come in and sit at a free table, so in I went and had my cappuccino. Cappuccino that cost more than my lunch today. xD And was fancier than any I've ever had. But very very good, still. I'll go there again, some day. (But not often, with those prices. Not even with the scholarship.)

Hmm, in this photo it looks like a perfectly ordinary cafe... (That's a cinnamon stick sticking out of the cup.)

Last night I dreamed about winter and snow. We got snow here (except that "here" was for some reason Italy), not much but enough to cover everything. Am I already missing the white winter...?